If you want a glimpse of heritage, don't miss the Falcon Souq. You only have to see the scale of the souq, afforded its own traditional arcaded building off Souq Waqif, to understand the place of falconry in Qatari society. It can be quite unnerving entering a falcon shop: birds, most of them hooded in black leather, perch on an open railing a handspan away, waiting to be taken home, fed less than a square meal and put straight to work.
The best time to come (although it can be a little hit or miss) is in the evenings, especially Thursday, when you can watch customers examining the birds and discussing the finer points of falconry with the shopkeepers. Next door to the Falcon Souq is the Souq Waqif Falcon Hospital – if you stop by when things are quiet and ask nicely, the staff might be willing to show you around